Been using CPAP's since 2005. Just got the ResMed Air Sense 11 with heated hose. Heated hose is set to 86F, but does not heat. The humidifier is on 6 to try to compensate, but then the water chamber goes dry before morning. Need moist heated air to avoid ulcerated nostrils again. Trying to find a balance. Anyone else have this problem? Suggestions?
I have the AirSense 10, not the 11. However I am not aware of any difference in the humidity and heated hose features. When you plug in the heated hose the humidity setting should default to Auto, and if not you should be able to set it to Auto. That is where mine is set. And for temperature I set mine at the default of 27 C or 81 F. These settings work fine for me. I do use most of the water but never run out unless I am getting close to 10 hours of sleep.
Sky, same here. I (thought I but probably didn't really) had trouble with my Airsense 10. They exchanged it for a model 11, the first in the office, they said. This was around January. That worked well in every way then totally died within two weeks. So I got a second model 11. That one didn't die but the hose wouldn't heat up. They sent me a second hose. That wouldn't heat up either. They now gave me my third model 11 and we tested it in the office. The hose (well, both) would not heat up. I said, "Let's keep trying them until we find one that works." But they wouldn't do it. The guy hinted that there is no point in trying more since every one he had in the shop was from the same batch. So I went home with the third one. At one point I changed the temperature settings from 88 to auto to 86, and unplugged the machine then plugged it in. It now heated up, fine, but only for about 2 minutes, then the hose shut down. The water still heats up. It is near empty after about 3. or 4 hours. I don't know where it goes, but it doesn't feel humid going into my throat.
My throat has been hurting since I got the second Model 11. I called around. Different ResMed people , and different people at the medical device company. I get the feeling they know the machines are defective. Especially the ResMed people. But they are recorded when they talk to customers so have to be careful what they say on the phone. My only hope is to wait long enough to get an exchange where they have ones that don't have the heated tube defect. I understand they can alter software remotely, so maybe they are hoping to patch the operating system without anyone but us knowing they shipped thousands of partly defective ones. I mean, like stockholders knowing.
Imaging Resmed gloating about Phillips problems with their recalls then finding out your newest product has bugs. So , no surprise that they'd want to keep it secret.
By the way, none of my model 11s gave me the solid sleep my model 10 did. Well, did a very few times. But that is not what the data says on the readout.
Fun fact. I was just told ResMed does not yet make a tube for the Model 11 with the T fitting for supplemental oxygen.
Sierra, I have to disagree. I know what warm is vs room temperature. My model 10 and first model 11 were warm to the touch.
If it is not warm to the touch it isn't working. Well, I shouldn't say that because I never , say, set the hose temperature to 81 degrees in a room that is 81 degrees.
Also, note that the two models use hoses that don't interchange.
I'm not saying any model 10 has a heated hose problem. I'm saying a batch of early Model 11's did.
My current machine , a model 11, even warmed up for about 2 minutes, then cooled back to room temperature after I did that "changing the settings and powering off and powering on" thing.
My sore throat corresponds to the use of the Model 11's that don't heat up the hose. The last two.
I'm hoping that the people that use the Airsense 11's that won't heat up the tube will post here and post when they
received the machine. And all the ones that have Airsense 11's that DO heat up will post here, also. And post their serial numbers.
Maybe I can get an idea which machines work, by serial number, so I can get one.
This may or may not be relevant, but let me tell two stories.
We have a trailer and sometimes camp off the grid. For that purpose I bought two 12 Volt DC to 24 Volt DC inverters made by ResMed - one for my wife's S9 and one for my A10. My inverter worked fine but my wife's didn't. After returning the inverter three times I did some electrical measurements to see what was going on. I essentially measured the current draw as my wife's inverter was tripping out on overload shortly after the machine started up. What I found out was that both my machine and my wife's machine with both the humidifier and heated hose were drawing the same current. And, more interesting the current was switching on and off. It seems the heated hose, or humidifier, or both do not used a modulated current draw. It is simply switching on and off to control temperature and humidity. The short story is that the current draw is very uneven, and I am convinced that there is a design error in the inverter made for the S9, but the A10 is fine. Relevant to your problem however is that even though I never felt the heated hose as warm, it certainly was drawing current, as was my wife's S9. And the other point is that it is not constantly on. It seems to cycle on and off.
Since that time the heated hose for my A10 basically failed at the mask end. The flexible rubber connector seemed to overheat and turn gooey. I replaced the hose and it is fine now. But the point again was that the hose appeared to be passing current. I suspect there was a bad connection inside the mask end connector that was causing the connecter fitting to get warm or hot, but I never noticed it. And this new hose is the same as the old in that I never feel the hose itself getting warm. But. I leave the temperature at 81 F (27 C), and never adjust it higher or lower.
This all said it is very hard to check to see if the hose is working if you only have a home 110 volt version of the power supply. I was only able to do it in my trailer setup because I could measure the current going to the inverter as the wires are exposed on the 12 volt side.
I just received an ResMed Airsense 11 APAP. Original hose did not heat. Replacement hose does not heat. Have an appointment with the supply companies tech to verify machine is faulty. ResMed APAP replaced a recalled Phillips that I could definitely feel the hose heat up. I am currently getting rainout at a lower humidity setting, so I know the hose is not heating. Guess the fun begins.
I received a 2nd replacement Airsense 11 APAP. Same issue. Rainout at very low humidity setting & increasing the heated hose setting made no difference. Complained again. They set me up with a Philips Dreamstation 2 Advanced APAP. Night and day humidity performance. I set the humidity and heated hose settings of the dreamstation to their max levels. It went through 2x the water of the RESMED with NO rainout at all. The heated hose of the dreamstation does not feel warm either, but the results show it works, unlike the Resmed heated hose.
The dreamstation 2 is not under the recall.
INMHO, Philips has the superior product if you need higher humidification levels, even the breathing algorithm feels better. Having experienced both units also verifies the videos I viewed that report that the RESMED ignores more AHI events, with the Philips reporting higher AHI events that reflect more accurate AHI results.
Oh well, YMMV.
My wife just got a new ResMed AirSense 10 AutoSet For Her to replace her 24,000 hour+ ResMed S9 Auto. I set it up the same as my older AutoSet 10, with the Climate Control set to Auto with a tube temperature of 80 F (27C). With an 8 hour sleep we both pretty much use the whole fill of water in the reservoir. Neither of us has had any issues with rainout. We could not ask for better performance.
Have you considered that the Phillips machine may not be responding as well to your apnea events and that is the reason why you are getting a higher AHI with the DreamStation? I have seen many OSCAR/SleepyHead graphs from the DreamStation and it is very persistent at trying to reduce pressure all night long, and when you get an event the pressure pops up again briefly and then heads down. Pressure is up and down like a yo-yo all night long. I guess this minimizes average pressure, but it also probably results in more apnea events.
It is quite easy to tell if your machine is ignoring apnea events if you use OSCAR. Just look at the flow graph in detail and you will see every recorded event or near event. You can manually determine if an event was missed or not.
Hey there, hope you solved your issues. I had similar so your post was useful in troubleshooting. I believe I have a solution.
Same rough problem as yours: tubing was working, then a night of no heat and huge rainout as a result. As I was trying to troubleshoot I noticed my Airsense 11 reporting that the Climateline 11 was connected but intermittently, as if was being plugged in and out of the unit.
This also resulted in tube heat settings not appearing in the user menus, likely due to the unit thinking a generic tube had been put in place of the powered Climateline.
I saw some other posts about Climateline being finicky with travel inverters and batteries. I remembered that I had installed a power bar of sorts for extra outlets, one of those big wall warts with four outlets and some USB ports to charge everything at once.
Sure enough if my Airsense 11 was plugged in directly to my wall socket with the splitter removed the intermittent “Climateline connected” issue went away and tube heat settings returned to the user menu.
I just did this now - haven't had a chance to test to see if the issues start again - but I think this will solve it. If this tube starts acting up again I’ll post here.
I thought about how a hair dryer will sometimes flicker the lights in my house when it’s turned on high heat and wondered if the draw of a CPAP/humidifier/heated tube would be higher than I expected. Electrically inclined users can check my work but I think the combo just overwhelms cheap socket solutions like mine resulting in power draw issues not reported by the Airsense. Some in-home real world QA from ResMed might have shown an environmental cause.
Those octopus splitters should not cause an issue, but they do increase the chances of a bad connection. You may want to check your hose for any signs of heating which could indicate a bad connection inside. I had to replace my Climate Line because I could see signs of decolorization of the soft rubber connector in the mask end of the hose. The connection also seemed to have lost strength and would pull apart during the night.
After 1year 2 months with Resmed 11:
-the water chamber doesn't heat at all, BUT does with 'warm up' setting then stops during use.
-climateline air heated tube no longer heats at all with any settings.
Supply co says they send it back and resmed 'deems' if it is user error or their machine and can take 4-6 weeks leaving one without a machine.
My issue was the hose was defective. I had switched to older hoses(that I had fortunately kept) but he gave same error message: "ClimateLine error. Therapy may run without heating." so I assumed that hose wasn't the issue as 3 hoses gave that message. Unplugged Resmed11 for a bit, plugged in with an old hose, now all works again.
During the past seven years I have been using a ResMed AirSense 10 Elite without any problems. In December of last year my provider issued me with a ResMed AirSense 10 Autoset. Since then I have had continuous problems with "Rainout", my provider has assured me that the settings in the Autoset machine are exactly the same as the old Elite. The only difference is that I am still using the Heated Hose and Humidifier from the Elite
Is the Heated Hose and Humidifier for the AirSense Elite compatible with the new Autoset?
Not as far as I have seen, it just shows a circle with Auto on the LHS. When I moved it I believe it showed 50
Both my wife and I use an AirSense 10 and I see that when I check the User Options both Climate Control and Temperature Control are set to Auto. When I look at the device settings in OSCAR, I see that the Humidity also shows level 4, and temperature at 27. You could possibly go to manual and try setting at level 4 and 27 C to see if that helps. But, as far as I know it should work in Auto. In fact I recall that when you plug the heated hose into the machine it displays that it has set the climate control to auto.
